We leave Palmeira on Tuesday, November 15th to enjoy just 5 miles south of the beautiful anchorage of baia da Mordeira where we are alone. There were dozens of sailboats in the bay of Palmeira and there is no one a few miles further in front of this magnificent beach, so much the better! Foot bath Diane on her buoy After two days of sandcastles, the sky becomes cloudy and it is time to head west, towards the island of Sao Nicolau. The 15 knots of west wind announced are weaker in reality and after 24 hours of peaceful sailing we arrive at the anchorage in front of the small town of Tarrafal. We walk the streets of the town after the mandatory formalities and we end up finding a brand new kindergarten. This contrasts with the surrounding precariousness but the infrastructure for children is always in perfect condition. As everywhere in Cape Verde, there are many stray dogs in the street, completely harmless, and in Tarrafal we also meet chickens and cows in the street, much to Nina's delight. The black sand of Tarrafal beach is renowned for its anti-rheumatic virtues but the rainy weather encourages us to stay on board and in the afternoon little Suzanne, from the sailboat Zanzan, comes for a snack with her parents. In most of our anchorages or ports since departure there is a majority of French boats heading to the Caribbean. But it is not often that we meet friends for the girls! Saturday, November 26th, after a last little tour in town and the purchase of 3 beautiful lobsters from local fishermen, we leave for the island of Santa Luzia 20 miles to the west. The children who were watching our dinghy asked us to give them diving masks instead of money.
Amazing walk! Black sand The weather here seems quite unpredictable, given the coastal effects with significant katabatic winds, and while the files announced 15 knots of wind, we alternate between calm and close... Still accompanied by a beautiful manta ray and some pilot whales while Diane cuts her first tooth. We decide to stop for the night at the anchorage of Ilheu Raso and wait for favorable wind. It is in any case not prudent to arrive at night in an anchorage, the charts being here not very precise. Ilheu Raso is classified as a nature reserve and we cannot land, so we leave the next morning with a perfect wind that allows us to cover the 15 miles in less than 3 hours under mainsail alone to limit the speed to 5 knots while keeping an eye on the depth sounder. We anchor in front of Palmo a Tostao beach south of Santa Luzia for lunch. After the nap we launch the dinghy for a walk on this uninhabited island. The notable swell makes the landing sporty but we had anticipated by only wearing our swimsuits and spare clothes in a waterproof bag. Despite the overcast weather, the beach is magnificent and the extremely soft sand encourages Diane to take her first steps alone. We hike for a while but we must admit that we are still a bit limited by the age of our girls to really venture out... Finally the beach is largely extended to satisfy us!
Highlight of the hike...
Stone house for occasional fishermen Marbled sand Shore We weigh anchor the next morning for Mindelo on the island of Sao Vicente 15 miles away, the last stop before the transat. We are thus anchored like many sailboats in the bay of Mindelo, an essential city of a Cape Verdean stay. Fish markets, vegetable markets, walks in the city and concerts in the evening sipping a caipirinha or a strela, the local beer, keep us busy. Concerts start early here, as soon as night falls, which allows us to enjoy them without the girls going to bed too late.
Dans les rues de Mindelo On hisse les couleurs locales, enfin!
Anchorage of Mindelo The girls in the front row!
We will also take the opportunity to stock up on fresh produce for the 15 days at sea ahead. Departure planned Saturday towards Fernando De Noronha.
