We initially planned to leave the Canaries on Friday, November 4th, but after a few hours sailing upwind in 30-knot winds, Nina and Perrine got seasick, and we decided to anchor in the small bay of Abona to wait for the trade winds, expected on Monday. After all, we’re not in a rush when leaving for 9 months, and sailing upwind means twice the distance, three times the time, and four times the effort! The girls took the opportunity to build sandcastles and let off steam on the small beach where we landed to visit the somewhat deserted village over the weekend. It was also a chance for a bit of fishing from the dinghy, and we were lucky to quickly catch a small red mullet for dinner!
Nina learns fishing Anchorage in Abona So, it was a well-rested crew that hoisted the sails for Cape Verde on Monday, November 7th, accompanied by the famous Northeast trade winds.
After a few hours sailing downwind, two beautiful dorado or mahi-mahi (male and female) got caught in our lines, ensuring our protein supply for the crossing! Libertaire devoured the 860 miles separating us from Cape Verde thanks to the constant 20-25 knots on a broad reach. The downside was a well-formed swell, with Nina constantly repeating, "Go away, waves, not good!" We were also impressed by how quickly and easily our girls moved around despite the boat’s motion. We thus entered the intertropical zone accompanied by our first flying fish.
Dorado First flying fish or exocet After a little less than 5 days at sea (not 4 as mistakenly mentioned on Facebook), we dropped anchor in Palmeira on the island of Sal, the easternmost island of Cape Verde. We hadn’t initially planned to land on this island, but there are only three ports in the archipelago for entry formalities. The main port, Mindelo, is overcrowded by the ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers) fleet, and Praia is much further south.
The anchorage in Palmeira is busy with many boats but calm and safe.
This fishing village is exotic, and you can feel that Africa is not far away. Nina and Diane became mascots at the kindergarten! The water temperature has also risen, allowing our two little sailors to enjoy longer swims. Plus, it’s hot, but the constant breeze makes the air bearable, and we haven’t been bothered by mosquitoes so far.
We took the crowded local buses to Espargos in the center of the island to do some shopping while the village children watched our dinghy in exchange for a bit of money. That’s how it is here—they help us land, take our trash, etc., in exchange for a small tip. For fresh water, you have to go to the village fountain during working hours on weekdays. Here, the water comes exclusively from the seawater desalination plant and is rationed but supposedly drinkable. As a precaution, we installed a water purification filter on board since we chose not to buy a desalinator, as where we’re going, there’s plenty of water in the glaciers!
This morning, we completed the entry formalities after a two-hour wait at the police station (there had been no customs officer for 4 days...). We plan to stop tomorrow at a wilder anchorage still on the island of Sal before heading to the more western islands and Mindelo on the island of Sao Vicente for exit formalities before crossing to Brazil in about two weeks.
Kindergarten We lent our girls and our glasses for the occasion!
Swing Swimming from the boat Thank you for your many messages; we’re thrilled to hear from you every time we find WiFi!
