The sun finally seems to show itself for our last days in Cape Verde, and after a quick trip to the market (we need to stock up on bananas and sweet potatoes!), we enjoy the beach of Mindelo, quite pleasant for a city-center beach. Our Cape Verdean stopover was quite short (2 weeks), but the journey is still long to Ushuaia, and we would like to spend Christmas in a nice place in Brazil! Mindelo Beach Fruit and vegetable market Fish market Fish market Fish market We weigh anchor on November 26 for the famous "transat."
The first 500 miles are pleasant with moderate and favorable trade winds and a flat sea. We sometimes regret not having a spinnaker, which would gain us a few knots in these rather soft sailing conditions... Onboard activities are easy to organize, and it’s an opportunity to prepare Christmas decorations. Then, as we pass below 8 degrees North, we cross a first line of squalls from the dreaded doldrums, which will accompany us for almost 200 miles, forcing us to motor for about thirty hours in total. We weren’t very lucky in this regard, and even though we didn’t have to cross heavy squalls, the doldrums clung to us, descending almost 3 degrees South as we did! It then gets hotter and hotter onboard (up to 33 degrees), and our first Advent chocolates have all melted! The girls spend a good part of their day in a basin filled with seawater to try to cool off...
We finally reach the Southeast trade winds around 5 degrees North and cover the last 600 miles in just 4 days, close-hauled. We pass by the rocks of Saints Peter and Paul, lost in the middle of the Atlantic, after crossing the equator on December 5. It’s then time to open our first surprise box prepared by our friends the Minahouets, thank you all and bravo to Sarah for her beautiful drawings! On Wednesday, December 7, we shout "land in sight" upon seeing Morro do Pico, the highest point (323 meters) of the paradisiacal island of Fernando de Noronha off the eastern tip of Brazil. We will have covered 1300 miles in 10 days with a respectable average given the conditions of just over 5 knots. Apart from our faithful flying fish and a few birds, we didn’t encounter any other cetaceans and barely one cargo ship per day.
Ballon de baudruche pour jouer Coiffeur atlantique...
Preparing Christmas decorations Games in the corridor Nina tries her costume for the equator Playdough Crafts Squall line in the doldrums Rocks of Saint Peter and Paul Arrival at Fernando de Noronha We anchor at the entrance of the small port of San Antonio, the only authorized anchorage in these crystal-clear waters classified as a World Heritage Site.
After some tidying up (you can imagine the state of Libertaire after 10 days at sea with 2 children aged 11 and 30 months...), we launch the dinghy to stretch our legs and complete the first entry formalities for Brazil. The charming port staff take us by car for a quick tour to the police station and immigration for the usual paperwork before bringing us back to the port. We return onboard to enjoy a good duck confit with roasted sweet potatoes! The island is mainly focused on tourism, but due to a limited number of available plane tickets, the archipelago doesn’t suffer from an influx of holidaymakers, and the atmosphere is pleasant and relaxed. The tropical landscapes are magnificent, the island clean and well-maintained, it’s nice to see some greenery. After a good night’s sleep, we wake up surrounded by dolphins. It’s tempting to dive with them, but it’s strictly forbidden under penalty of a hefty fine. We’ll make up for it a few hours later by swimming with the large turtles just a few meters from the beach. Beaches, small hikes, snorkeling on the agenda until Sunday, then we’ll set sail again for Salvador de Bahia, 700 miles South. Indeed, even though the landscapes are paradisiacal, the truly excessive amount of ecological stay and anchorage taxes doesn’t encourage us to stay too long.
Anchoring from Remedios Fort Backlight on San Antonio Bay, Pico on the left NNW swell, Pico and Libertaire Shark museum Braaaaazil! Praia do Cachorro Praia do Leao Praia do Leao Praia do Leao
