Tuesday, December 18, we are ready to set sail to begin our journey up the Chilean canals, which should end mid-March in Valdivia on the west coast of Chile. We therefore have some time ahead of us to enjoy these magnificent landscapes between sea and mountains... and very often in the rain. The region is indeed known for its rainfall records and katabatic winds. First, we head west, taking the northern arm of the Beagle Channel for the 3rd time since 2017. We anchor at Caleta Olla and then in front of Pirincho Island in Garibaldi Fjord, facing one of the glaciers of the Cordillera Darwin. We then join our French friends on the sailboat Petrouchka for Christmas on Chair Island, where we stay for 3 days. We take advantage of a brief calm to reach Caleta Emilita on O'Brien Island and then anchor at Puerto Atracadero before stopping at the spectacular anchorage of Caleta Brecknock to celebrate the New Year with two other sailboats. The small bay is entirely surrounded by granite mountains with numerous waterfalls and lakes. The hikes are breathtaking but very wet and windy, and we must take advantage of the few calm days to sail. Navigation in the canals is comfortable since there is no swell, and we mostly sail half under sail and half under motor, but we must remain vigilant because the charts are often inaccurate, and some rocks are missing... We are now gradually heading north without yet feeling a rise in temperatures—snow is still present on the peaks, and the sea does not exceed 8 degrees. Additionally, our fishing attempts remain unsuccessful for now, but fortunately, we still have some good Falkland lamb. Nina and Diane are also delighted to splash around in their waterproof suits, climb rocks and trees, and sail their little toys in the streams! We plan to enter the Strait of Magellan in the coming days to reach the Smith Channel and continue our journey north.
Happy New Year 2019!