We continue our descent of British Columbia under the sun and by sail to reach Goose Island, a bit west of the busier channels. No bears on this uninhabited island, but wolves that live in packs, as evidenced by the numerous tracks on the beach. Harder to observe, we only hear their nocturnal howls. The small coves of the island with beautiful white sand beaches are very pleasant and perfect for grilled marshmallows for snack time! We then head to Calvert Island, home to the Hakai research station and offering family-friendly, marked trails to the beaches... A gradual return to civilization, we feel we are getting closer to Vancouver Island. The fishing season is in full swing, and many motorboats transit between Alaska and Seattle for the summer.
We then anchor at Secure Anchorage and then Millbrook Cove before passing Cape Caution in the fog and reaching Bull Harbour on Hope Island. The only village on the island was likely abandoned during the pandemic. Everything was left as is, giving an end-of-the-world atmosphere... A long beach of black sand and pebbles completes the scene. The many sea otters still seem to enjoy the place! Iconic animals of the region, once nearly extinct due to hunting for their fur, they are now experiencing population growth.
We have been in Port Hardy at the north of Vancouver Island for a few days, a charmless North American town but very practical logistically. The disparities between Indigenous populations and Canadians, which we had already sensed, seem more striking here... A delicate and current topic in Canada.
We will then explore the Broughton Archipelago, it's whale season! In the meantime, we enjoy our first freshly caught salmon!
