Finally, the night from Saturday in the port of Thingeyri was much more turbulent than expected. The southwest wind was significantly deflected by the local configuration, and the port, open to the east and theoretically well protected, saw a nasty chop rise abruptly along with a wind at 90° to the forecasted wind! Maneuvers in the pouring rain and gusts until 3 a.m. to try to protect Libertaire as best as possible. Result: 2 bent stanchions and some nice scratches on the paint. It's true that 1.5m swell against a concrete breakwater is not fun... Departure is postponed to Monday, time to repair the stanchions, do some painting, and recharge our batteries...
We leave on Monday late morning for Isafjordur, 45 miles away, which we reach in the evening after a very pleasant downwind sail in moderate wind.
From Tuesday, a new depression brings us a well-established southwest wind with rain again. We set out to hike on the heights of Isafjordur but, soaked, we fall back on the pool and its 'hot pots'.
Wednesday, still wind and rain, we take the opportunity for some cleaning, reading, and friendly encounters with our pontoon neighbors. Before leaving in the evening, a small restaurant is welcome! We leave just after the current depression passes and 3 days before the next one... In these conditions, anchoring is not advised, and we decide on a direct route to Siglufjordur, at the entrance to Akureyri Fjord.
The night is rather pleasant in a moderate easterly flow. In the morning, a shift to the north and west during the day as the center of the depression moves northeast and we skirt around Hornstrandir. The wind strengthens gradually, and we sail all day at 8 knots under staysail/3 reefs in a significant NW swell... We arrive at midnight on Thursday night after 145 miles of strong sailing! No hot meal in 24 hours of sailing, it's the first time!
The next morning, the spectacle is magnificent, the peaks are covered with snow down to about 300 meters, and the sun awaits us... We set out to stroll around the port and its avalanche defenses.
On Saturday, we hike on the heights accompanied by many sheep and wild horses, before enjoying a good swim at the municipal pool!
The next day, it's a re-'whole-gale' from the north, and we moor Libertaire seriously before visiting the beautiful Herring Museum. Indeed, the herring industry was until the 1960s the main source of income for the region, before they disappeared due to overfishing.
For the storm, all the fishermen have returned to port (even those over 50 meters), but the Harbour Master still reserved us a small spot on a well-sheltered mole! Thanks...
On Monday, the wind still blows, and snow falls thickly at 200 meters altitude. The thermometer reads 4°C, perfect for a little hot chocolate at the port café while planning the next part of the program.
On Tuesday, we visit Akureyri where Alexis joins us in the evening to travel a bit with us. For the occasion, we rented a car that will allow us on Wednesday, while waiting for the swell to calm down, to visit part of the interior of Iceland, notably Lake Myvatn and its surroundings. The snow brought by the depression has covered everything, including Libertaire's deck, and enhances the landscapes.
In the evening, after a full day, we take advantage of the remnants of the westerly flow in the wake of the depression to reach Grimsey Island, the only Icelandic territory above the Arctic Circle. We arrive at 2 a.m. after 6 hours of fast but still rough crossing. After a good night, we set out to explore the small island, inhabited year-round by 70 residents, mainly fishermen, as well as many sheep and horses. This small island nevertheless has its pool (!!!) and its 'hot pot'. Although the pool is closed on Thursday and Friday, the friendly manager opens the doors for a private evening! On Friday, the rain falls non-stop, and we spend the afternoon drying near the stove after the morning hike!
On Saturday, departure at dawn in the rain, heading to Seydisfjordur on the east coast, 180 miles from Grimsey. Indeed, we don't miss the good westerly wind that allows us to gain miles towards the next leg... 36 hours of sailing later, we arrive in the magnificent fjord of Seydisfjordur, under the sun held by a high-pressure system temporarily settled over Iceland! Tomorrow we will take advantage of the good weather to hike on the heights of this charming village made up of multicolored wooden houses, waiting for a weather window for the 240 miles to the Faroe Islands!
