We left Paraty Mirim on Monday, January 23 in the afternoon to take advantage of a very moderate northeast wind. The configuration of the Brazilian coast at this point, with nearly 200 miles oriented east-west, prevents the NE winds from the western side of the Saint Helena anticyclone from establishing as regularly as they do further north in Brazil. So we couldn't be too picky about the weather window unless we wanted to stay here much longer... After 3 days at sea, we approached Florianopolis, but the tail end of a cold front from a depression 200 miles south surprised us with 45-knot winds for about half an hour, and especially a shift to SW that prevented us from reaching Santa Catarina Island where Florianopolis is located. Instead, we anchored further north in Governador Celso Ramos, a peaceful fishing village. After a short night, we took a taxi to Florianopolis to complete the formalities for leaving Brazil and to accompany Perrine's parents as they flew back to France. The landscapes and climate changed—the vegetation became less "tropical," and cows reappeared in the fields. The weather didn't allow us to enjoy Santa Catarina Island, as the wind blew from the south all weekend. We settled for the surroundings of our quiet little harbor under gray skies—time to fly the kite! On Monday, a good weather window opened for heading to Argentina, so we left Brazil! We truly enjoyed this country despite the sometimes unbearable heat for our daughters. Travel guides emphasize the country's insecurity, but we remember the generosity of Brazilians: from signed books at the laundromat to coconut and banana fritters offered at anchor, to sweets and other little gifts given to Nina and Diane, and other small daily kindnesses... the crew was warmly welcomed everywhere.
Diane in front of the anchorage at Governador Celso Ramos
Kite flying on Las Palmas beach
Chocolate cake, work in progress...
The sail south was downwind with 20 knots, so we covered the miles quickly for the first 3 days. Then the wind weakened, and we crossed the Brazil-Uruguay border under engine power. A depression was forecast for the Rio de la Plata over the weekend with 35-knot westerly winds, making it tricky to reach Buenos Aires—especially since tacking in the Rio is complicated due to very shallow depths for Libertaire outside the channels. We decided to stop in Punta del Este, Uruguay, one of the most glamorous cities in South America according to Lonely Planet. Tall hotel buildings and crowded beaches—this is the French Riviera! The forecast depression arrived, and Punta del Este's harbor is poorly protected from northerly to westerly winds. To shelter from the predicted 35/40-knot winds, we anchored 1 mile from the harbor on Sunday east of Isla Gorriti, a charming and deserted island. Yes, the trade winds are gone—now we have to check the weather even at anchor! Monday morning, after a sleepless night (some swell and gusts up to 45-50 knots...), we weighed anchor as the wind shifted to SSW, making the anchorage downright uncomfortable. We motored 1 mile with 30 knots of wind remaining to anchor again in front of the harbor, where we were slightly more sheltered, though the swell still rolled in... As we approached, we saw the storm's violence firsthand—no fewer than 6 sailboats had run aground. Indeed, the NW wind blew at 122 km/h (75 mph) in gusts on Sunday evening according to local authorities, coming straight into the harbor where the swell reached 1.5 meters. Protected by the island and its tall pines, we barely experienced half the wind and were mostly shielded from the swell. See the link to the local newspaper with impressive photos.
http://www.elobservador.com.uy/puerto-punta-del-este-permanece-cerrado-luego-del-temporal-n1028213
Arrival in Punta del Este, evening bottle
Full sails toward sunset
Libertaire at anchor, at the end of the street...
French Riviera?
La Mano, famous sculpture by Chilean artist Mario Irarrázabal
On the dock of Gorriti Island
Punta del Este in the background
On Gorriti's west coast, the wind picked up
Gorriti Island
Anchoring strategy during the depression, sheltered by Gorriti from 120 km/h WNW winds
Photo from El Observador newspaper in Punta del Este harbor, Sunday night to Monday, gusts up to 66 knots
Photo from El Observador newspaper, Monday morning, Libertaire returning to the harbor for SW winds...
We should be able to leave tomorrow for Buenos Aires, 180 miles west on the opposite shore of the Rio de la Plata, as the weather has become more favorable.
