Position : Kvalrossbukta 70°58 N - 8°41 O
The east wind force 5 accompanies us for 48 hours then gradually weakens, turning south as we approach the center of the depression. Passing just to the south, we experience a few unpleasant hours with the sails flapping in the swell. Then the shift to the southwest is gradual. Indeed, at this latitude, the depressions are mainly old and occluded, and we do not observe the usual warm and cold fronts that have merged here while rotating around. During the night from Wednesday to Thursday, Libertaire is still close-hauled, the wind strengthens, the 25 knots are easily reached, and we spend 24 uncomfortable hours playing leapfrog with the waves! At 30 miles from Jan Mayen, the wind turns northwest, allowing us to regain the miles lost to the west. We finally anchor at Haapbukta on Friday at 3 a.m., as the wind has left us and we are happy for a bit of respite, even though the anchorage is quite rolly. Over 550 miles of the direct route, we encountered no other boats, only fulmars accompanied us.
On Friday evening, after a thorough cleanup following these 5 hectic days, we hoist the sails, heading west. Unfortunately, the lack of wind does not allow us to go very far, and we anchor 5 miles further at Rekvedbukta at the foot of the old crater of Eggoeya. Jan Mayen, 56 kilometers long and 15 kilometers wide, is a volcanic island whose main volcano, Beerenberg, peaks at 2227 meters. The last major eruption was in 1970, and the island then gained 3 square kilometers of area! From the sea, the peaks are in the fog, and we are struck by the almost fluorescent green of the gentle slopes, contrasting with the black stone of the cliffs.
On Saturday, the wind picks up, allowing us to round Soerkapp, surrounded by pilot whales and petrels, to anchor at Kvalrossbukta on the west coast where the absence of swell makes landing possible. A "rendezvous" is arranged via VHF with the station chief for Sunday morning.
The island is inhabited by 18 Norwegians, whose role is to ensure the proper functioning of the Loran C and meteorological station.
This morning the chief comes to pick us up in a Jeep for a tour of his domain! After 9 kilometers of track, we arrive at Olonkinbyen, the base since 1960. After a complete tour of the facilities, we are invited to enjoy the outdoor heated pool at 36°C! A clever Norwegian has transformed this large water tank, originally intended as a water reserve in case of fire, into a heated pool by using this water as a coolant for the generators... After a good shower, we are invited for Sunday tea and we enjoy waffles and coffee! Once again, we are delighted by the warmth of the welcome reserved for passing sailboats. So, with full bellies, we return to the boat on foot.
Tomorrow we will go hiking on the island, if the swell allows us to go ashore, and we will wait for a good weather window for Iceland.