Libertaire Sailing

2017-01-23 Blog

Ilha Grande and Paraty

We leave Rio on Wednesday, January 11th, late in the morning to take advantage of the thermal breeze and gain a few easy miles towards Ilha Grande, 50 miles to the West. We sail along the Rio metropolitan area, which stretches for several kilometers along the coast.

In the late afternoon, the wind weakens, and we anchor for the night in Guaratiba, a small seaside resort. After a not-so-refreshing dip in the sea, we prepare the freshly caught tuna for dinner.

The next day, squalls follow one after another, and the accompanying wind brings us to Vila do Abraao on Ilha Grande under torrential rain. The crew is delighted to freshen up with freshwater!

Ilha Grande is one of the best-preserved islands in Brazil, where cars are prohibited. Once a pirate hideout, this island, rich in stunning beaches and intact Atlantic tropical forests, now attracts many tourists who arrive by boat in Abraao, the main town on the island. The girls are happy to rediscover sandcastles and clean swimming waters (which was not the case in the highly polluted bay of Rio).

We remain anchored for a few days in front of the small town where Isabelle and Marc, Perrine's parents, join us on Friday, January 13th. It's an opportunity to enjoy the nightlife and hikes the island offers while Nina and Diane are cuddled by their grandparents.

On Sunday, we head to Saco de Céu, a few miles to the West, another very peaceful anchorage on Ilha Grande. We are then surrounded by tropical forest on all sides. The pleasant walk around the bay passes through more authentic fishing villages.

We continue our tour of the island by spending a night in the small bay south of Ilha de Macacos, featuring a charming little beach and fish-filled waters perfect for snorkeling. While we are alone at anchor in the evening, numerous motorboats with their sound systems at full volume and jet skis invade the bay during the day...

Praia de Lopes Mendes, ranked among the most beautiful beaches in South America.

Mouillage de Guaratiba

Plan of Ananas at Saco de Céu.

Walk at Saco de Céu.

Diving competition at Macacos.

Libertaire at Saco de Céu.

Saco de Céu.

Repas sur la plage devant le mouillage de Macacos

Hike on Ilha Grande.

On Tuesday, the wind is favorable for reaching Paraty, 35 miles away, a pleasant sail along the Costa Verde, a stretch of coastline where jungle-covered mountains plunge steeply into emerald green waters. Paraty, with its well-preserved colonial-style historic center, is one of Brazil's historical gems. The streets in the center are pedestrian-only, and at high tide, the water floods the alleys, giving it a small Venice-like atmosphere.

We stroll for four days in this charming, lively town, bustling due to the Brazilian summer holidays, and then head to the surroundings of Paraty, which offer magnificent beaches. We spend a night in front of the village of Paraty-Mirim and then at the end of the Mamangua fjord, stunning even under the rain that has been accompanying us for a few days. We leave tonight for Florianopolis, 350 miles to the South, our last Brazilian stop.

Dans les rues de Paraty

Attentives...

The tide rises in the streets.

Église de Paraty, style colonial

Diane and her grandfather, Coco.

En route vers Paraty-Mirim

Sur la plage, au fond du "fjord" de Mamangua

Quelques pas avant l'orage

Saut en longueur au mouillage de Paraty Mirim

Au moteur dans le fjord...

Les avantages du moteur, hamac dans le lazy-bag!