Some news from the past few weeks spent in this chain of almost uninhabited islands that extend the Alaska peninsula to the Russian border. A bit cut off from the civilized world, we sail from island to island, trying first to head west as soon as possible, as the prevailing winds are against us. Libertaire crosses the International Date Line once again, and we stop at Kiska. Hikes on land are made easier by the absence of trees, replaced by tundra, lush grass, and moss, which seems to satisfy the herds of shy reindeer, our only neighbors. The volcanic formation of these islands gives beautiful black sand beaches that feel almost warm when the sun shines (the water doesn't exceed 7°C), contrasting with the snowy peaks.
Cod has replaced herring on our plates, and soon the first salmon arrive at the river mouths. It's hard to imagine that this scenery was the battlefield of the Japanese and American armies during World War II, as evidenced by some remnants. The small village of Adak is actually a former American military base that once housed 2000 people. Today, barely forty people maintain an American presence in an apocalyptic setting with all the old facilities falling into ruins, swept by the winds... a strange atmosphere!
The return journey is much easier, and we discover other beautiful anchorages, notably Quail Cove and Inanudak Bay with hot springs. We meet Leiv on his sailboat Peregrine, whom we had met in the Falklands a few years ago. Since yesterday, we have been back in Dutch Harbour, the fridge is full of fish offered by the fishermen on the dock: cod, halibut, salmon! The stopover is very convenient for restocking before cruising along the Alaska peninsula.